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The simplest, most honest answer to the question of how to tell a real diamond from a fake is “get a professional to test the diamond.” With new better fake diamonds available, it is more and more difficult to identify a real diamond even for a professional with a jewelers’ loupes.

These are some hard rules to follow. If you purchase an already set diamond, look at the bands metal stamp (10k, 14k, 18l, Pl, ect), as using a precious metal band increases the chances that the ring’s creator used a real stone as well.

You can closely watch and observe the corners, edges and girdle-band of the cut stone, with the help of a handy magnifying glass or a jeweler’s loupe A fake is indicated by soft, rolled edges. You can also achieve this effect using a clear, smooth girdle at the junction of the facets around the heart of the stone.

A loupe can help you identify any imperfections in the stone. These can be very difficult to imitate because they are created naturally and they are very unique. Unfortunately natural diamonds are also most valued when least flawed, and the minor flaws that are commonly allowed through are not easily spotted by the amateur.

Generally, weight may be utilized as a normal indicator for those types of things. Many of the materials that are used for fake diamonds are actually heavier or lighter than the real thing. In particular, the most well known fake diamond, cubic zirconium, is heavier. If you have a precision scale and samples of real diamonds you can perform a comparison.

Keep glass away from your diamond to avoid scratching. Don’t attempt acid tests that might be used on metals. Don’t try smashing a diamond — it will crush as well as any other crystalline substance and better than many.  If it is a diamond, and you breath on it, the moisture will disappear too fast for you to see it; whereas, with a fake, it won’t. Its only a hint, nothing else and its not definite. Composition stones, that have a base of one material and a table of diamond, will pass the test and at the same time compare the valueless in terms of true worth.

Again, the very best way to tell a fake from a real diamond is to allow a professional to provide a serious appraisal. You must not only choose your jewelers but also ask for documentation of each gem. (stones are individual and documentation goes a long way in establishing its nature). When you put your trust in a reputable, professional jeweler, who works with reliable sources, you will find a person who can be relied upon for a quality grade of appraisal, help in making a selection and reliability. 

With no insult intended towards chain jewelers, think very carefully before going to one for an appraisal. Mass produced manufacture of broad distribution shows both strength and weakness. Chain jewelry stores while competent in themselves still will not give you the expertise of a higher end store or assessment business.

After you’ve found an appraisal service by searching online or in the yellow pages, make sure you thoroughly vet the assessor by looking at his or her experience, licensing and background. The good indications of skill are a Licensed jeweler, a good journeyman in a traditional program  and a dealer who has been dealing with stones previously.

Be sure that they test the stone in your presence if you are bringing it in. (to discourage switching the product by less than honest jewelers) . If you are refused, turn and walk right back out. Request complete documentation if purchasing a stone. To know the real diamond is very difficult and even professionals think twice and look three times.

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